500 gallon RF Build revised

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there's many ways to layout the tank to make the cut for the FB to mount into...

Here's one of those ways... Set the tank up LEVEL (both directions) on blocks... I got lucky and found a piece of 3/4' plywood (48"x12") that wasn't bowed to use for this next step.... block up this piece of plywood(?) under the end of the tank to be cut... start the edge at the weld under the tank and let it stick out past the tank... this "table" has to be level (both directions) as well.. now you have to get creative and make something that will slide around on this table (square to it) that will hold a sharpie at your segment height (14" I believe you said)... draw the line from weld to weld around the bell end at 14" high by sliding this contraption around on this table ... now use the level to extend these lines from the weld into the CC however deep you want the FB into the CC ... to connect these two lines around the bottom of the tank is best done with a thin flexible metal rule... bend it around from mark to mark and draw the line...

I hope your not as confused as I am now.. LOL... I'm sure there are other ways.. probably easier ones ... just the way I did it ...
 
That's funny because I did exactly what you are saying yesterday my cc is on jack stands and leveled and I measured to the cut line then measured from that line to the floor and cut a piece of 4 inch wide plate with a foot on the bottom at that dimension and walked around the bell end marking the line around the bell and then took some metal strap and used it as a guide to draw a complete line at that measurement. I am glad I am not the only one who thinks this way!
 
I got the cook chamber cut for the fire box today! It was a measure 100 times and cut once kinda thing. It worked out well the opening is exactly 35 1/2 inches wide so I have 1/4 on each side to play with. The dimension from the bottom of the cook chamber to the top of the firebox is 14 inches so i am good on air volume. I made the vertical cut 3 inches inside of the weld seam and I will have about 14 inches of firebox to use for preheating wood etc. I go get my steel for the firebox tomorrow and hope to have it completed this weekend.
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After a second look, it appears your doors have sprung a bit....  I would straighten them to fit the holes perfect before continuing...   Then skip weld the door seals using  1/16 - 3/32" steel or better yet, blind weld the door seals from inside the smoker....  you can notch the edge of the door with a grinder and weld inside the grind to attach the seal...  about every 4-6" should be adequate...  clamp the seal and weld it to the door....   That's a trick I learned from Ribwizzard....  
 
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After a second look, it appears your doors have sprung a bit....  I would straighten them to fit the holes perfect before continuing...   Then skip weld the door seals using  1/16 - 3/32" steel or better yet, blind weld the door seals from inside the smoker....  you can notch the edge of the door with a grinder and weld inside the grind to attach the seal...  about every 4-6" should be adequate...  clamp the seal and weld it to the door....   That's a trick I learned from Ribwizzard....  
I will have to do some research on the door seal method you are taking about. I am not sure I get what you mean about grinding a relief into the door on the inside for the seal? Does the seal not extend past the door? If I weld the seal on the inside of the door how does it open and close? or are we talking about a seal that makes contact with the 3/32 that would be welded around the door opening on the cook chamber? 
 
Keep weld in the grind out so it doesn't interfere with the door closing....  or be prepared to grind off the welds...   make the grind outs big enough to hold the weld...

Weld FROM the inside with the door seal on the outside of the door....   Looks awesome when finished....   No welds showing....

 
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Keep weld in the grind out so it doesn't interfere with the door closing....  or be prepared to grind off the welds...   make the grind outs big enough to hold the weld...



Weld FROM the inside with the door seal on the outside of the door....   Looks awesome when finished....   No welds showing....








Gotcha!!!!!!
 
My firebox is 32x32x32 and the RF plate is welded to the top of the firebox. If you want a picture I can get you some if that helps.
I would love to see the pictures! Any visual input I can get to help me have an idea how the inside of this thing should look is welcome! 
During the many searches I have done of various builds one thing I have yet to see is the actual firebox opening cut and how it relates to the reverse flow plate location. 
The idea of having a square firebox and locating it so that its part of the the reverse flow plate makes a ton of sense to me! 

As soon as the rain stops I'll get you one. Possibly tomorrow.
 
Well I picked up a ton of steel yesterday and before I build my firebox today I needed a table to build it on so I banged this out last night after work and an hour in traffic going home late after stopping to pick up steel
It took me till 10:30 last night to git R done but it will be worth it this morning. It's 4:30 now and I am heading out to the shop to git after it.
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I could not get myself to buck up for 1/2" plate so I used 1/4" and this frame I had in the shop. It's very heavy and level and I used 4"x4"x 1/4 wall square tube for legs. It's 4'x5' and will work well for me on various projects. Today it's a firebox build!
 
I made good progress today the firebox is a fully welded box and I got started on the ash drawer once it's done I will weld in the angles that will hold the wood grate. Lining up and tacking those 36"x 36" plates was a chore! I would have been smart to get a rather set of hands to help but nobody has ever accused me of being smart.
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The frame for the ash drawer
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Got more done today. The ash drawer is complete and the wood rack is done. I am going to add plate from under the angle supporting wood rack to just above the ash drawer sloping downward to the drawer so the ash will flow to the drawer. Next I will cut and put the upper and lower vents in the plate facing the cook chamber opening then cut the front firebox plate put it in place and cut the door opening
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Well I came home from work today and banged out some more on the firebox I cut and installed the plates from the wood grate to the ash drawer.
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Now I need to decide if I should add a deflector plate or not? I am thinking since my firebox top is going to be part of the reverse flow plate it won't be needed? I would love some input on if it will add to the performance of the smoker or not?
 
Here is the picture of my Firebox into the tank. You can see the weld line where the firebox meets the plate. Sorry for the crappy picture.

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I can get you a better picture or draw on it to show you it.
 
Also are you going to brace the center of the walls on the firebox so that they don't flex under the heat?
 
Also are you going to brace the center of the walls on the firebox so that they don't flex under the heat?
I thought I should maybe add a piece of angle going up and down on each side as a stiffener. and I figured if I add a deflector plate on the upper part of the box it would help as well. Dang this thing is going to be heavy!!!! 

I also considered adding angle to the top (inside) in a X across from corner to corner to stiffen the top for when I use it to heat anything on it. 
 
I would recommend reinforcing the walls. I didn't originally and when the fire is burning extremely hot you can see it bow. I am putting in reinforcements not to prevent this.

As for the ceiling below is a picture of what I did and it works great. Doesn't get too hot so if I touch it by mistake it doesn't burn the heck out of me.

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We used fireplace firebrick.
 
I was planning my vents and realized I had painted myself into a corner. One of the plates I put in to direct ash into the ash drawer is blocking my lower vent location across from the cook chamber entrance so I am going to modify that plate by cutting it lengthwise down the middle and making the lower half sit flatter creating an opening for air from the lower vent to pass through then add a couple inches to the top plate to create an overlap so the ash will still fall into the drawer. Hopefully this will work out well.
 
If the math I did is correct I will be putting (4) 6" diameter holes in below the wood grate and one 6" diameter hole across from the cook chamber opening for my vents.
I edited this post to reflect the correct numbers. I am taking an advanced rigging class for work and the instructor is very good at telling us how smart he is and so I hit him with turning my 80-90 sq in lower and 20 sq in upper numbers into holes of what diameter? He did a very long equation and came up with very wrong numbers that I took as correct and when I drew them out on my smoker I knew something looked wrong. I got a little out of the class and with my upper 20 sq in number a 5"x5" square is 25 sq in and a circle the same size is 80% of the square the 3" hole he said I needed did not compute. So I am going a little over sized with a 6" hole but I dont have to open it all the way and 4 6" holes below will work the same way. I hope!
 
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