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Discussion in 'Reverse Flow' started by munxcub, Jun 20, 2013.
by the way build is looking good i think i would like one that size someday so i have been watching
Thanks, there are a couple of welding/fab shops in town that probably have a similar deal, I know one does. It's just tough getting down there because they're open the same hours I'm at work, and I don't have a truck so the pieces have to fit in my wife's van. heh.
yea i know what ya mean there
Can you explain this one a bit more? How should I want the door to be beveled? Like this?
If in your pic, the door was to swing up, then yes, and then at the other end it would be beveled the opposite way, just so the door centers itself. I dont put that much angle on it, maybe half that. But you deffinitely dont want to bevel it the wrong way, especially on thick tanks, or you will end up with a wide gap.
Sounds good, I think I will move the chimney location and make the door wider. Might take it a hair past 12:00 on the tank too. I'll have to fill the holes in the top of the tank. Should be no problem if I can find a couple of hole saws the right size, then I can cut nice circles out of some plate I have laying around to weld in.
Won't get much done this weekend, despite being a holiday Monday. Have a family event.
Managed to get some work done yesterday. Got the chimney welded into place, cc door almost cut out (reciprocating saw blade died a third of the way across the bottom). Also got the cc door hinges on and a couple little pieces to keep the door from falling into the tank.
Boy that chimney looks tall in these pics... 30" above tank, it's what the calculator said. Doesn't look so tall in real life.
Here's a question. For the strapping around the CC door, what width/thickness is recommended? I think 1/4" thick is a bit much, I was thinking 1"x1/8" but is that heavy enough to catch the door for years?
my doors bigger but i used 3/16 x 2 i wanted an inch on both sides, i also used 1/4 x2 on the top flange because my hinge mounts to it. i dont see why 1/8 wouldnt work though would be easier to form around the curve of the door
I've got about a 1/16" cut around the door so figure 1" should be plenty wide to cover that and would have an appropriate scale for my cooker, but am always open to suggestions.
I was on the fence between 1/8" and 3/16" thick tho...
are you planning on putting a putting a seal arounf the door? i wasnt sure thats y i went with 2 inch so if needed later i could add a seal and have plenty of flange to cover it, not sure what yer plan is but just and idea. you can also look at 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 wide
I haven't decided on a seal yet, was planning to wait and see if it was necessary. How wide would be required for that? I've never seen the type of seal before.
on my barrel smoker i used a wood stove rope seal im sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in though
Nice size for the patio. I want to build a 250, but I think I'll do it backwards from you....I'll learn on one this size first!
Oh this is my first one. Was originally planning on getting a 250l tank but it didn't pan out.
Finished cutting the door when I stopped at my parents to pick up my kids. A new blade works wonders.
OK, from the title I thought you had already built the 250! Looking good.
So how worried do I need to be about getting things too hot/warping when burning this thing out tonight? How long do I let it burn for, how do I know it's "done"?
Do I need to burn out the fire box too? (it's all new steel)
Well she's burning. Interesting to see how the chimney and air intakes affect things. Hope nothing warps. Heh
Steel has oil applied during the rolling process..... yes, burn out the FB..... 450-500 ish for an hour or 2 should get rid of all the toxic stuff..