Masterbuilt heating element replacement????
- Thread starter kudu2222
- Start date
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?? What dropped Graco ?? Help us out here.... Others may have a similar problem... This is a great learning experience for all of us....
Did you put the ice on the round button on the left side back panel... The probe that sticks out about 3/4" on the back panel right side, should be the thermocouple that measures the temp.. that's not the snap switch...
I think a part under the floor on the left side, facing the smoker, may have failed.. there's a bunch of electrical under there... One of our members, some time back, dug in there and replaced a part... Can't remember who...
If push comes to shove, get a controller and hook it up directly to the heating element... disconnect the rest of the stuff and just use the controller.... Lots are available from $30 on up... Auber has some nice plug and play stuff....
Maybe someone will give you some help and suggestions on what will work well for you......
Maybe someone will give you some help and suggestions on what will work well for you......
dogwalker
Meat Mopper
I can send you a couple pigtail high temp connectors. I also had no lead to work with. I have over a dozen I got for $8.00, brass plated in nickel 900*F. I'll just mail to you for free. It's better than having them sit around here. I double shrink tube them for heat resistance. Here's a couple pics. If you want two, just PM me and I'll drop them in the mail.
I soldered all my joints but you can wire nut it like MB sends there's, if necessary. I used 14 gauge instead of Masterbuilt's 16. I've got plenty for now and no problem to make in five minutes. Many have said to look at the element quick disconnect first so I'm passing the buck!
-Kurt
Sure am glad I'm on this board! This was a big weekend, and I smoked pork shoulder Friday night, and then started brisket last night (for Mother's Day). Then my MES 40 stopped heating, so I had to finish the brisket in our oven (forgot to put foil under it, so I'm in trouble for the mess, but that's another story).This is how I hooked it up.
Thankfully, I vaguely remembered reading something about this on the forums, so I did a search and found this. Sure enough, one of my wires has completely come off! To test, I temporarily connected it to the post, and the smoker heats again. So now I need to look for something like you guys are describing.
So, it sounds like I should look for:
1) some extra wire to give me some safety margin (what grade?)
2) little slide-on clips (pardon my ignorance, what are those called?)
3) twist connectors
and then solder the wires to the female clips, which I'll then slide on to the male clips.
I should go ahead and do both wires, right? Just the one eroded, but I haven't removed the plastic wrap to check the other.
Thanks again!
@Dogwalker I got the Supco T1113 1/4" HIGH HEAT QUICK DISCONNECTS on Amazon. These are for 14-16 guage wire. I used std 14 guage wire in the pic you posted above because I had no extra lead to work with. I double shrink tubed it as well but that may not be necessary since it's been over a year and it looks like the day I installed it. The Amazon pic showed crimpable fold over tabs on the lugs but they came as a non crimpable barrel that you slide the wire through after you tin it and solder it on. The pic below shows the black Mes and the high heat replacement and yes I did both because the shrink tubing on the good original lug in this pic was hard and bubbled. If you have enough lead strip it till you get to good wire, twist the wire, tin it and slide it through the barrel till it sticks out the other end 1/4". Hang the end of the wire on a 100 watt solder gun till the tinned end melts and add more solder to fill the joint/barrel. Use wire cutters to clip the excess off and cover with shrink tubing and slide it on the element after you shine up the male spade on the element.
-Kurt
dogwalker
Meat Mopper
Kurt, thanks for such great details! My original wire looks long enough that I don't need to add any more wire, but I'll buy two of these high heat connects, since I looked, and you're right - the remaining one is hard and bubbled. I hate to admit this, but I don't really know about soldering or what "tinning" means, but my son does. I'm a software nerd, LOL!@Dogwalker I got the Supco T1113 1/4" HIGH HEAT QUICK DISCONNECTS on Amazon. These are for 14-16 guage wire. I used std 14 guage wire in the pic you posted above because I had no extra lead to work with. I double shrink tubed it as well but that may not be necessary since it's been over a year and it looks like the day I installed it. The Amazon pic showed crimpable fold over tabs on the lugs but they came as a non crimpable barrel that you slide the wire through after you tin it and solder it on. The pic below shows the black Mes and the high heat replacement and yes I did both because the shrink tubing on the good original lug in this pic was hard and bubbled. If you have enough lead strip it till you get to good wire, twist the wire, tin it and slide it through the barrel till it sticks out the other end 1/4". Hang the end of the wire on a 100 watt solder gun till the tinned end melts and add more solder to fill the joint/barrel. Use wire cutters to clip the excess off and cover with shrink tubing and slide it on the element after you shine up the male spade on the element.
-Kurt
I *really* appreciate this! I'll buy the connects for 14 guage.
Thanks!
dogwalker
Meat Mopper
Dr K, I went to Lowe's to pick up disconnects, but I don't really know electronics and how they work. I do know that heat is related to current and resistance, but that's about it.
The disconnects they have are wrapped in some kind of plastic, and they have these ratings:
voltage rating: 300 volt max
temperature rating: 221 degrees F
Now, I wouldn't think that the wires or disconnects get as hot as the heating element, but I really don't know. If I use this, am I running a risk of a fire? I saw the the Supcos you recommended have a much higher max temperature rating.
Thanks again!
The disconnects they have are wrapped in some kind of plastic, and they have these ratings:
voltage rating: 300 volt max
temperature rating: 221 degrees F
Now, I wouldn't think that the wires or disconnects get as hot as the heating element, but I really don't know. If I use this, am I running a risk of a fire? I saw the the Supcos you recommended have a much higher max temperature rating.
Thanks again!
They should be fine with the voltage rating and the connection isn't hot like the element. The high temp connectors I believe are nickle plated steel vs. softer aluminum etc. So they take more strength to connect meaning a tighter connection. Heating and cooling cycles on the Mes connectors that came with the smoker expand and contract, and loosen faster than high heat. Loose connections create more resistence. More resistence creates heat on top of the heaing cycles, loosening the connection faster till it fails. Then there's oxidation/corrosion from opposing metals outdoor conditions and the connector disintegrates/disappears, leaving the wire sticking up in the air.
I bought the bag of high heat because I have two gen 1 40 and the safety snap disk switch takes the same connectors and if the controller fails I'll go to a PID mod I'll use these connectoer to make a power cord hooked up directly to the element. So it was worth $9.00 for 20 high heat disconnects. If you want a couple, PM me and I'll drop a couple in an envelope and mail to you. It's no problem. I sent a couple to DaRicksta last year.
-Kurt
This forum is great.... I wish I would have read it yesterday. I had one of the spade connectors to my heating elements loosen and corrode to the point where it would not heat up. Got it cleaned up and pinched it tight after reconnecting it. It works great again ( for now). I may need to add a new spade connector if it repeats the problem.
Now... my son hauled his MBE 30" smoker to my house for me to use while I was fixing mine. It worked great at his house, but when I set it up at my place it blows the gfi plug that I always use for my smoker. I have used his on this plug before as well. The control panel comes on ok when I turn the power on. I set the temp, and then set the time. As soon as I set the minutes and press set time to enter it, it pops the gfi. Any thoughts before I tear into this one?
Now... my son hauled his MBE 30" smoker to my house for me to use while I was fixing mine. It worked great at his house, but when I set it up at my place it blows the gfi plug that I always use for my smoker. I have used his on this plug before as well. The control panel comes on ok when I turn the power on. I set the temp, and then set the time. As soon as I set the minutes and press set time to enter it, it pops the gfi. Any thoughts before I tear into this one?
Try a different gfci you have to see if it trips. Some heat element with a hair dryer heat gun incase it absorbed moisture. Unplug then disconnect element to see if the mes 30 heating element reads 18 Ohms on the meter.
dogwalker
Meat Mopper
I'm no electrical expert, I'd wonder if there's a chance the wire is within arc range of the metal. I added a new end connector and then wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. I hope you find the problem, it sucks not having your smoker working! I was without mine a few weeks. Good luck!
texassmokes
Newbie
The exact same thing happened to mine. I just opened the back plate and one of the connections is completely gone. I know nothing about wiring but should be able to fix it if I know what im looking for at the hardware store and what I need to do. I assume I just need a new conector and strip the wire and put it back together?
I checked the heat element continuity and it is ok. I also tried different circuits but got the same result. I can't check any other wiring connections because all of the access panels are pop riveted on instead of screws. I suppose I could drill them out for access and then replace with screws. Any thoughts?
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