Water pressure tank BBQ

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exhaustedspark

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
May 12, 2011
515
12
Springdale Washington
Here is my project.

I Water pressure tank. 24 in. across OD

245b3e52_WatertankconversiontoBBQ002.jpg


The bottom pipe is 1 1/2 in pipe.
a7d3b66f_WatertankconversiontoBBQ1.5inchhole.jpg


Now to cut the top off.
a8fbb205_WatertankconversiontoBBQ004.jpg


Well the Foreman. Lady in the bottom right hand corner says i am doing it correct.

AWWW H*#!!

Went from 7 in. Blade down to 3 in and still have 6 more inches to cut.

Have to put on hold for a few days until i can get to town and pu some more blades.

To be Continued.

Karl

This is what the inside looks like
be086ff2_WatertankconversiontoBBQ002.jpg
dcc2aedf_WatertankconversiontoBBQ001.jpg


It is 23 3/4 in on the inside accross.
 
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Looking forward to seeing your build!

I've been wanting to make one too.. I have the tank but not enough time.
 
Awesome!!!!!  A UDS on steroids!!!! And a thick skin.

If I can get caught up by the end of the holiday I will play with a few numbers and see what happens. 

You may be able to use the fitting on the bottom for a ball valve, and have a multi-purpose air intake/drain.

Right off the top of my head I am thinking its on the small side but it may do the trick. If you used an elevated ash pan. 

Even if it needed more air. I think I would do the intakes into the bottom within the edges of the skirt. Then maybe have the ball valve below the curved portion of the tank. 

Not that it will work or cook any better, but it would be sleek and stream line.....unlike a drum with stuff sticking out totally unhidden. 

Another if it was me thing.....

I would flange the lid before you get it cut all the way off. If you don't weld you can always use a light gauge steel and rivets to attach the flange.

I also would not use a fire door. 

These units will run for an extended period of time one a single load of fuel. 

Alot of guys use the threaded bung fitting on top of the drums for there smoke stack. So I think 3" would be plenty for yours.

Good Luck and pls keep us posted.
 
AAAWWW Hell.

The tran. went out in the car so now i cant git the parts and ball valve i need. I did pu the blades to finish the cut and i will be going to a welding shop in Chewelah Wa. to get the rolled flange i need. I think i will only make the one cut and lower the basket in from the top. Us PWT just keep plugging along.

Karl
 
Awesome!!!!!  A UDS on steroids!!!! And a thick skin.

If I can get caught up by the end of the holiday I will play with a few numbers and see what happens. 

You may be able to use the fitting on the bottom for a ball valve, and have a multi-purpose air intake/drain.

Right off the top of my head I am thinking its on the small side but it may do the trick. If you used an elevated ash pan. 

Even if it needed more air. I think I would do the intakes into the bottom within the edges of the skirt. Then maybe have the ball valve below the curved portion of the tank. 

Not that it will work or cook any better, but it would be sleek and stream line.....unlike a drum with stuff sticking out totally unhidden. 

Another if it was me thing.....

I would flange the lid before you get it cut all the way off. If you don't weld you can always use a light gauge steel and rivets to attach the flange.

I also would not use a fire door. 

These units will run for an extended period of time one a single load of fuel. 

Alot of guys use the threaded bung fitting on top of the drums for there smoke stack. So I think 3" would be plenty for yours.

Good Luck and pls keep us posted.
I plan on puting a flange all the way around so i have to cut of the top first. It will go inside the bottom part of the smoker.

I do have a 3 in hole saw so i wil do that for the chimney.  I am not going to add a fire door. I think i will use a baskit to lower in to the bottom.  I am hoping i will be able to use for cold smoking using the amzs and for hot smoking using briqetts and wood charcol. hey i want the best of both world. I want it all.
 
Got the blades i needed to finish the cut. I may not be very good at showing how to build something but i can sure show how not to do something.
8db7f0a9_WatertankconversiontoBBQ001.jpg
a8de2385_WatertankconversiontoBBQ005.jpg


I was using the side of my saw as a guide following the weld mark. I found out that is not a good idea because by the time i saw i was off on the cut it was to late.

Now i have to decide whether to cut again only this time mark a line around or just side grind it down.

I cant get the other parts until next month. The joy of living on SSD.

To much month at the end of the money.

th_crybaby2.gif


Karl
 
OK here is what i did today.

3838a867_TodaysbatchofSummersausage.017.jpg


I  am pretty happy with the results.

The guy that made up that saying about Measure once and cut twice he had it bass ackwards.

What can i say?

da5168ce_TodaysbatchofSummersausage.019.jpg


I am much happier with this. I think i only lost about 1/2 in max.

Now just to get out the hand file and smooth down the edges.

Does anyone know of a Hinge that would work for something like this???

Karl
 
Here is my project.

I Water pressure tank. 24 in. across OD

245b3e52_WatertankconversiontoBBQ002.jpg


The bottom pipe is 1 1/2 in pipe.
a7d3b66f_WatertankconversiontoBBQ1.5inchhole.jpg


Now to cut the top off.
a8fbb205_WatertankconversiontoBBQ004.jpg


Well the Foreman. Lady in the bottom right hand corner says i am doing it correct.

AWWW H*#!!

Went from 7 in. Blade down to 3 in and still have 6 more inches to cut.

Have to put on hold for a few days until i can get to town and pu some more blades.

To be Continued.

Karl

This is what the inside looks like
be086ff2_WatertankconversiontoBBQ002.jpg
dcc2aedf_WatertankconversiontoBBQ001.jpg


It is 23 3/4 in on the inside accross.
On the pict of the inside you can see the bottom hole. That is approx 5 in across. So i can also use with out that in place My idea is to be able to use this with electrick , Gas, Charcoal. and Amazn.

Like i said I want it all. 
th_Slab_of_meat.gif

 
 
Welll i did some burning to remove some of the paint from outside.

9e232e85_TodaysbatchofSummersausage.022.jpg


This is of course a work in progress as i dont have all the equip and i dont weld. So i got to make do.

Here is another picture of the fire.

I love fire.

74499392_TodaysbatchofSummersausage.020.jpg
 
I have been giving it some thought and i think if i use the bottom hole for input i will be creating problems for myself with ash dropping. So i think i will not reinvent the wheel and put the inputs on the bottom edge up about 2 inches. Any thoughts on this would be app.
help.gif


Karl
 
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I had no idea that a skillsaw would cut that...Looks real good so far.
The blades are called Masonry Blades and if you do it correctly it would take 1 1/2 blades. Make sure to draw a line and follow it as i said earlier i tried to use the side of the saw as a guide. I know as homer would say DUH

I am going to also use it for an elect. smoker using the Cabelas element for that and while reading up on it to order i noticed all complaints were about the small wood chip tray.

So i had a bundt cake pan and some eye bolts and washers and this is what i came up with.

35c09bc7_Newchiptray003.jpg


8109502d_Newchiptray004.jpg


Some instructions for sawdust pans state to use you finger and put a hole in the center of the sawdust and we all know how much work that is. Also i did not want to have the center act like a channel for heat to the center of the uds so i killed 2 birds with one throw. Any thing from a coat hanger to a hay hook can reach in to remove. A lid can be built real easy out of an old pie pan if one thought it was needed.

Karl
 
Here is pictures of burn. 4 cups sawdust. Approx 1 1/2 hr total. In future i will put on the grate and that will lift up the pan by 1 in.

to slow down the burn. This is Dry dust. I also like to dampen my chips using water / wine.

eedcff55_Newchiptray006.jpg


50fd120e_Newchiptray010.jpg


eb8aa9c3_Newchiptray011.jpg


This is one efficient chip pan if you have room in smoker.

Karl
 
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