~Backwoods Style Build

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Fantastic Drawings!!

What are you using to model in?

I played around with 3-d rendering just a little and it would have taken me 2 years longer to draw it then to just freaking build it. Awesome work both in the drawings and in the craftsmanship.

If you don't mind me asking. About how much do you have tied up dollar wise so far? I have a stumps clone in my future, just not sure how future its gonna be.
 
In regards to Tom37's questions:

The 3D model was done in Sketchup and the drawings were done in AutoCAD.

Total cost is around $375 w/o the digital control and fan. This cost includes the cart that the BBQ pit sits on which has a stainless steel top. Without the cart the price to build just the smoker was around $300. I paid ~50 cents per pound for the steel new. It could definately be done cheaper with scrap.

In regards to jeffrip's question:

I had intended to use a full size hotel pan for the water pan. We will see if it fits once its built?

In regards to flyin'illin's question:
I don't know how well the draft works. I have not finished building it yet.
 
What wall thickness was the tubing? Also I was just wondering if the 16 gauge sheet metal between the firebox and smoke chamber should be a little thicker?
 
The thickness of the square and rectangular tubing was 14ga. The sheet metal between the firebox and the smoke chamber is 16ga. As far as it being to thin... I don't know? Are you asking if it is too thin in regards to it warping do to the heat or for some other reason? Corrosion? Strength to support the water pan? If it does not perform well I can just cut it out and weld in a thicker plate.
 
I have mine built, 16 ga is fine for the guts. I used 12 ga on the bottom of the firebox because I use a dolley to move mine around. BW's uses 22 ga outside and 18 inside fyi with cheap insulation. Someone that posts here has cooked a comp on it already too. he told me about this post.
 
I was just thinking that with the direct heat from the firebox that a little heavier metal on the heat deflector might be a nice upgrade. You can always add to it if it is ever a problem though.
 
Hi guys,

I am a bit confused as to how a BWS works.

It appears the top chamber is sealed from the bottom but there is a chimney at the back with some holes from the chamber into it.

However how does the heat from the bottom coal chamber get to the chimney ?

Thanks,

L
 
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Wow awesome drawings . Have you finished this cooker ? If so how well does it do . Some pics of it in operation would be awesome also . Thanks Pkerchef
 
Wow that is a nice build you did.
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I think i will build one of these using sirchunkus plans. My neighbor just bought a new welder so let's see how it works. Pkerchef
 
I am also curious to know how the heat/smoke works on this design as well.  Can someone please explain?
Its magic......LOL

Just kidding man, I couldn't resist.

The fire is down under in the front usually.

The heat flows up a tube to the top area of the cook chamber.

The exhaust vent hole is most often at or near the bottom but sometimes there is also holes mid-way up to help create even temps.

I have seen these set-up with race-way's like the a maze n smoker and they run fabulous. 

I have never cooked on one of these but I can only imagine that with the PID, guru,or stoker. That they would be effortless to maintain.

Just my 2 cents, and please if I am not on track, someone jump in and correct me.
 
I am not seeing any tube where the heat moves from the fire to the cook chamber.  I understand the reverse flow and the smoke stack, but I dont see where the smoke and heat is getting to the cook chamber.  Am I blind!!!!!? 
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The inner wall stops short of top.Thats were smoke comes in and fills the chamber.Then it goes out on a lower vent pipe or stack.The smoke has to go down to get out.
 
I followed a build on the praririe bbq site a while back.

The guy used a commercial frig, the up tubes as well as the stack tube where hidden in the rear wall. Within the space where the insulation goes. 
 
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