Black film

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Preheat the smoker above cooking temps... use dry seasoned wood.... have surface of meat dry before smoke is added...
and I would suggest adding an additional air inlet to the FB... an upper air inlet will help burn creosote, adjust the temp in the CC without affecting the fire temperature, which is controlled by the bottom air inlet...
Using a single air inlet to the Firebox, fire management is critical... dual air inlets makes life much easier and controls the fire, and Cook Chamber temps painlessly....
A clean burning fire should produce clean smoke and the meat should look clean.... The turkey sections were in the smoke for hours... no sauce, no rub... plain old turkey that had been brined and dried and a pellicle allowed to form before smoking......



Suggested upper air inlet location.... directly across from the FB/CC opening... add an adjustable closure of sorts... see what others have done.... AND never close the exhaust when cooking.... LEAVE IT WIDE OPEN .......


Below is a tutorial on building a RF smoker that works well..... There are a few points that should help you out....

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/...others-ready-to-use-rev5-6-19-15#post_1264161
 
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putting meat directly in a smoker from a fridge or cooler can exaggerate creosote formation, creosote builds up heaviest at condensation points, cold meat in a hot smoker is a major condensation point, so if you're burning unseasoned wood and putting ice cold meat in.....you will have creosote. Also when you put meat on, it will be damp for a bit, try not to play around with the coals and kick up particulates until the surface of the meat is dry.
 
What I can't understand split stacked covered all oak 1.5 yrs ago see water bubbling out wood while on fire.I also preheat them on firebox.
 
What I can't understand split stacked covered all oak 1.5 yrs ago see water bubbling out wood while on fire.I also preheat them on firebox.
I don't know about Florida, but in PA they figure lumber air dries at about 1" per year, and the lowest it can get to reach equilibrium moisture content would be about 13%.

The big thing is like Dave also said----Must have that Bird dry before putting the smoke on it.

Bear
 
Oak is extremely reluctant to give up its moisture, I've had oak split and stacked two years still showing over 25% on a moisture meter.....don't cover it tightly, air flow is important to drying.
 
What I can't understand split stacked covered all oak 1.5 yrs ago see water bubbling out wood while on fire.I also preheat them on firebox.


Split the pieces smaller.... it's about the only way Oak will dry... OR, you can put it inside the smoker with a fire in the FB.... that will dry it... seems a little self defeating though, don't it... run the smoker at 250-275...

Dave
 
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Dave, I actually do what you describe, when I'm done smoking or grilling I'll often throw a couple chunks down on the coals and let them char up a bit then shut my vents to kill the fire. Basically burns off any moisture and leaves you with a really clean burning wood/semi charcoal chunk. I'll use those chunk when I want to add wood midway through a cook, ensures a good clean burning smoke that won't smolder.
 
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