"The Flap"

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haywire haywood

Smoke Blower
Original poster
Dec 10, 2014
77
14
Every time I go to slice a piece of meat, I get "the flap" at the bottom and I have to rotate the piece being sliced.  Looking at it, I blame the slicing tray being too far from the blade and not supporting the meat, so the bottom edge falls away from the blade rather than being cut.  My solution (which is as of yet unproven) is to bond a 1/8" sheet of HDPE to the slicing tray and close that gap so that the meat is better supported.   Here are my before and after pics.  Before, the gap is about 3/16" and after it's under 1/16".  It should make for more trouble free slicing.


 
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Whatever you bond it with, make sure it can be removed for cleaning. Smearing a little Rubber Cement on both surfaces, letting it dry a bit and pressing them together, should make a temporary bond that can then be rubbed off the two surfaces easily for clean up.

I worked as a Deli Manager years ago and one on the biggest mistakes the kids made with slicing cold cuts, was pushing the meat too hard against the blade This caused the face of the meat to deform and force the outer edges to curl slightly. This easily caused a flap on the bottom and back end of the meat...JJ .
 
That's probably part of the problem too, because I do also get some back flap, but this slicer doesn't self feed very well so if you want consistent slices,some positive pressure is required. This slicer comes apart pretty easy for cleaning, so the sliding shelf just goes in the dishwasher.

Another thing I wish I could fix is the short vertical fence. The huge gap at the back lets what your slicing fall through at the end when you're trying to get those last two or three cuts off.

 
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I realy like this idea!! Please let us know if it works, cause if it does I will do this mod to my slicer. I hate that flap of meat and trying to avoid it.
Keep Smokin!!!
Wolf
 
I've found it also applies when knife-slicing something like a boneless pork loin roast that will flex a lot. If the knife is traveling toward the outside, it will deform the meat as you describe. So I cut with the blade drawing from the outside toward the center.
 
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I bonded it just now with something we call "mean green" at work.  If I want it off, I'll have to order a new tray.  LOL  After it sets up, I am going to edge seal the HDPE so I don't get meat juices  between it and the stock tray.  I'm cold smoking some bacon Saturday so it'll get a test this weekend.
 
Usually it's frustration.  Maybe now it'll be a full slice.
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JimmyJ, what is the gap like on one of those $5000 Hobarts?

Ian
 
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Usually it's frustration.  Maybe now it'll be a full slice.
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JimmyJ, what is the gap like on one of those $5000 Hobarts?

Ian
Ian it is really about the same. Last thing you need is the carriage slamming into the blade. The big difference, as you mentioned, is the carriage is at a much steeper angle so the meat is self feeding, no distortion, until you get to the last pound or so. The blades also spin at a higher RPM than most home use slicers...JJ
 
Ok, makes sense. Another thing that must make a huge difference is the shrouded blade where only the cutting edge is exposed. This one will try to grab and spin the meat once a slice is mostly cut.
 
Yep...A Shot of Food Grade Silicone Spray will help with that. Just let it dry first...JJ

LEM213(3).jpg
 
 
Ordered some of that silicone from Amazon this afternoon.   Thanks JJ.

Well folk, my redneck modification worked like a champ
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.  I sliced the pound of loin I smoked today with ZERO flap.  It cut cleaner too on the back end, sometimes a slice would remain attached at the bottom corner because the carriage didn't bypass the blade enough to overcome the flap that was still attached.  Now I either have to eat a whole slice or wait for the butt pieces at the end.

Ian
 
 
Ordered some of that silicone from Amazon this afternoon.
Got it in the mail today... for being "food grade" it has some pretty dire label warnings...

"may cause drowsiness or dizziness, suspected of damaging fertility, may cause damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure."

I think most of it relates to the extremely flammable nature of the propellant and inhaling the stuff when you apply it.  Still, it doesn't read like something I'd voluntarily rub my food on.
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Just for anyone reading this thread and wondering about the silicone, I called CRC, the manufacturer of what I bought and they say that it is only rated for incidental contact with food.  It's designed for lubricating sliding parts, not for actual food contact surfaces.

Ian
 
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 One of the common uses is in Grinders and Stuffers to displace water from causing grinder plate and other steel parts from rusting and to lube the stuffer canister and O-ring for smooth operation. All those are direct food contact surfaces. The CRC brand has a NSF H1 code recommending limited contact. I can't find the NSF code for the LEM spray. Since a little goes a long way, I don't know if it represents that much of an issue and even using the slicer weekly there is probably more of a problem breathing the propellant than eating a tiny bit of silicone. But I am not a Toxicologist and I didn't sleep in a Holiday-Inn Express last night...
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  In any event that spray is useful for grinders and stuffers, not to mention if sprayed in hard to reach areas of the slicer is an effective food release coating for easier cleaning and water displacement. Below is info on how members use it. If you are worried, you may have some luck with spraying the blade surface with PAM or rubbing on a thin coating of Food Grade Mineral Oil, found in the Pharmacy isle by the laxatives. Don't worry it is only a laxative in spoonful quantities...JJ

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/132979/food-grade-silicone-spray-for-grinder

http://www.crcindustries.com/files/StopLightNSFUSDAPoster.pdf

NSF Category Code: H1 This product is acceptable as a lubricant with incidental food contact for use in official establishments operating under the Federal Meat and Poultry Products Inspection Program. Such compounds may be used on food processing equipment as a protective anti-rust film, as a release agent on gaskets or seals of tank closures, and as a lubricant for machine parts and equipment in locations in which there is potential exposure of lubricated part to food. The amount used should be the minimum required to accomplish the desired technical effect on the equipment. If used as an anti-rust film, the compound must be removed from the equipment surface by washing or wiping, as required to leave the surface effectively free of any substance which could be transferred to food being processed. The final granting of authorization for the proposed use of such compound is the responsibility of the Inspector-In Charge of the official plant. 
 
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If used as an anti-rust film, the compound must be removed from the equipment surface by washing or wiping, as required to leave the surface effectively free of any substance which could be transferred to food being processed.
Thanks for the links JJ.  I think I'll err on the side of caution.  I used vegetable oil a couple days ago and it sorta worked for a short time, but not well enough to bother with it.  When it warms up, I'll use the silicone to waterproof my rain jacket again or maybe the shower curtain. :)

On the flap issue, I did get some flap slicing pork belly fat side down, but it was really thin and membrane-like and wasn't as big a hassle as it was before.

Ian
 
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