Painting Smoker Doors

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jim williams

Meat Mopper
Original poster
Sep 25, 2014
182
18
Nebraska
Hello everyone,

I am in the midst of building my smoker doors, 3/16" x 3"x3" angle iron and 1/4" plate.

Questions include:

1) Use high temp. header/engine spray paint

2) Use high temp.(2000) Kryon spray paint

3) Use 2000 degree ceramic flame paint (anti-blister)

4) Other ideas?

AND........Should I paint the inside doors (probably not) or spray with oil and season them with smoke and let it go at that.?

Thanks everyone, Have a  good day!  ( be 52* this week in Nebraska, OOH YA)
 
 
Hello everyone,

I am in the midst of building my smoker doors, 3/16" x 3"x3" angle iron and 1/4" plate.

Questions include:

1) Use high temp. header/engine spray paint

2) Use high temp.(2000) Kryon spray paint

3) Use 2000 degree ceramic flame paint (anti-blister)

4) Other ideas? Any high heat paint would be fine.

AND........Should I paint the inside doors (probably not) or spray with oil and season them with smoke and let it go at that.? Don't paint inside just season with oil and heat.

Thanks everyone, Have a  good day!  ( be 52* this week in Nebraska, OOH YA)
Let's see some pics.

Happy smoken.

David

PS 
worthless.gif
 
 -LOL    - I meant David,   THE DOORS are almost duplicate of Wes W.
I am trying to provide pics.  right now.  None of the frame as it is still being welded in spare time but coming soon!

I do have this, I changed up the original plans and now looking at a charcoal grill and dog house for wood instead of solid  brick shelving.

Hang on, not a computer wiz!
 
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You may now see the plan David with the rest of us.

If you can only imagine the adjustable charcoal grill on the right, then the dog house on the left for firewood. finished shelf/grill height is to be 40" .  Smoker's Arch will be terminated at 8'. Will put small arch in "Doghouse" for wood if I have time. The grill will end with a double fold steel lid that will preserve itself when not in use.

Where to put the fresh air intakes???  double in back, 1 through the grill? idk

What you think Wes??
 
Last edited:
[h2]VHT FLAMEPROOF[emoji]8482[/emoji] COATING[/h2]
VHT FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, silicone ceramic base widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Coating will withstand temperatures up to 2000°F (1093°C) and is ideal for use on headers, exhaust systems, or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed.

Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C)

Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads

Finish: Flat

Dry Time: Curing time required and can be done on or off vehicle (see below)
[h3]Curing FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji][/h3]
VHT FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).
[h3]On the Vehicle[/h3]
  • Paint must be completely dry before curing
  • Run at idle for 10 minutes
  • Cool for 20 minutes
  • Run at idle for 20 minutes
  • Cool for 20 minutes
  • Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes
[h3]Off the Vehicle[/h3]
  • Paint must be completely dry before curing
  • Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
  • Cool for 30 minutes
  • Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
  • Cool for 30 minutes
  • Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal
[h3]Coating System[/h3]
VHT provides a multi-high performance coating system for the ultimate in protection and quality. The system includes surface preparation, primer, paint and clear coat.
PrepSP445Prep Spray
PrimeSP118FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Primer
CoatSPXXXFlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Color
FinishSP115FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Clear
can0000flameproof.gif

[h3]AVAILABLE IN THESE COLORS:[/h3]
  • SP100 Flat Grey Primer
  • MSDS
  • SP101 Flat White
  • MSDS
  • SP102 Flat Black
  • MSDS
  • SP104 Flat Gray
  • MSDS
  • SP106 Flat Silver
  • MSDS
  • SP108 Flat Yellow
  • MSDS
  • SP109 Flat Red
  • MSDS
  • SP110 Flat Blue
  • MSDS
  • SP114 Flat Orange
  • MSDS
  • SP115 Satin Clear
  • MSDS
  • SP117 Flat Aluminum
  • MSDS
  • SP118 Flat White Primer
  • MSDS
  • SP998 Cast Iron
  • MSDS
This is what I am considering in the RED or the BLACK, I know red shows more use and black don't but I can be a clean freak sometimes..
 
Good evening Jim.

Sorry, haven't been up to do much lately.   

Looks really good.   I like the idea of a grill.   I offset brick in the fireplace to put a grill rack.  It works pretty good.

Now I understand more about the top.   I think your idea will work.  Just give your steel room to move.

As far as paint.  Davids got you covered there.  I need to repaint mine.   But, I'm kinda liking the worn, grease running down the front look.    Its starting to look like its been around a while.

Can't wait to see it complete!
 
 [h2]VHT FLAMEPROOF[emoji]8482[/emoji] COATING[/h2]
VHT FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, silicone ceramic base widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Coating will withstand temperatures up to 2000°F (1093°C) and is ideal for use on headers, exhaust systems, or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed.

Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C)

Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads

Finish: Flat

Dry Time: Curing time required and can be done on or off vehicle (see below)
[h3]Curing FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji][/h3]
VHT FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).
[h3]On the Vehicle[/h3]
  • Paint must be completely dry before curing
  • Run at idle for 10 minutes
  • Cool for 20 minutes
  • Run at idle for 20 minutes
  • Cool for 20 minutes
  • Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes
[h3]Off the Vehicle[/h3]
  • Paint must be completely dry before curing
  • Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
  • Cool for 30 minutes
  • Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
  • Cool for 30 minutes
  • Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal
[h3]Coating System[/h3]
VHT provides a multi-high performance coating system for the ultimate in protection and quality. The system includes surface preparation, primer, paint and clear coat.
PrepSP445Prep Spray
PrimeSP118FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Primer
CoatSPXXXFlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Color
FinishSP115FlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Clear
can0000flameproof.gif

[h3]AVAILABLE IN THESE COLORS:[/h3]
  • SP100 Flat Grey Primer
  • MSDS
  • SP101 Flat White
  • MSDS
  • SP102 Flat Black
  • MSDS
  • SP104 Flat Gray
  • MSDS
  • SP106 Flat Silver
  • MSDS
  • SP108 Flat Yellow
  • MSDS
  • SP109 Flat Red
  • MSDS
  • SP110 Flat Blue
  • MSDS
  • SP114 Flat Orange
  • MSDS
  • SP115 Satin Clear
  • MSDS
  • SP117 Flat Aluminum
  • MSDS
  • SP118 Flat White Primer
  • MSDS
  • SP998 Cast Iron
  • MSDS
This is what I am considering in the RED or the BLACK, I know red shows more use and black don't but I can be a clean freak sometimes..
Check Grainger or the likes. Spray doesn't go very far and it is pricey. A gallon or a quart will give you a lot more bang for you buck. I am glad to see you are coming ahead on the build.

Happy smoken.

david
 
Thank you Mr.
I am doing as much prep work as possible through the winter so I can go in the spring/summer.
Just need about 150 faced brick and should be set.
 
Thank you Wes and David,

I am putting heat rope just inside the door frame attached to the door (with internal steel frame)  to help prevent smoke/heat leakage and or dripping to the outside. I don't know if its possible but it will be there. Maybe weld a 1/8" x  1 1/2" slat across the bottom at a 22* to a 45* angle...

I may consider a "drip ledge" inside the door to fall in water pan area when complete.

I have my hinges made also but I need to modify the lowers only, then I will be happy.

P.S. I am in search of quarts of these paints now, I am very appreciative of all the ideas We all will gain talking it through, thanks guys.

As I said above, I am welding this in spare time and will provide pics at that point.
 
PrepSP445Prep Spray
PrimeSP118Flame Proof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Primer
CoatSPXXXFlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Color
FinishSP115
Flame Proof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Clear
Can you just paint raw steel and be fine?

Is all of these necessary to paint your doors? Most guys keep saying just paint your color on raw steel. Maybe a sales gimmick or true to duration?  True or false?
 
 
PrepSP445Prep Spray
PrimeSP118Flame Proof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Primer
CoatSPXXXFlameProof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Color
FinishSP115
Flame Proof[emoji]8482[/emoji] Clear
Can you just paint raw steel and be fine?

Is all of these necessary to paint your doors? Most guys keep saying just paint your color on raw steel. Maybe a sales gimmick or true to duration?  True or false?
As with anything, you can spend as much as your wallet will allow.   If you want it to look like a car finish, yes,  what you posted will provide that.   But, it cost.

I used rustolium or however you spell it.  Its primer and paint.  Now, with that said,  it hasn't lasted.  When I re-paint it,  I will use a brush on rustolium.   To me its a smoker,  as long as it doesn't rust out in my time,  I'm good.    I will not be re painting the insides of the doors.  They have so much smoke and grease on them,  they will never rust.

A drip edge over the doors is a great idea.  
 
Here are the doors, as of today all hinged and ready for handles.

Hope you can see them, computer only lets them show as jpeg and not the photo. sorry.
 
I like it.    Not sure what your plans were for therms, but don't waste your money on putting them in the doors.   At $40.00 per therm, (for the good ones)  they do look cool but they only read 4" inside the doors.   I use the  remote one and run the lead out the door and rest the transmitter on the ledge.   I set mind half way back on the first shelf of meat on the side.  Its clips in nicely on the shelf. 
 
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